Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Tips For Taking Fall Pictures





Fall is the nature photographer's dream season. We've asked veteran fall color expert Rod Planck for some of his top tips to help you get the best from this season of fiery hues. Source

Use Reflections
Not everybody thinks about using reflections when they have the goal to shoot autumn colors. But using reflections can save a photographer on a bad day. If it's particularly windy or there's harsh sunlight, go into a forest with a shaded stream. Suddenly, the chaos of the wind goes away, the reflection in the water increases the color saturation and beautiful colors can be made. I prefer using a long lens, like the telephoto AF-S Nikkor 300mm ƒ/4D IF-ED lens in this image, to isolate the reflection instead of a wide-angle where you end up chasing the length of the reflection.
Source

The Cam Caddie Scorpion /EX is a Universal Stabilizing Camera Handle and DSLR Support Rig designed for today's new breed of digital cameras. The Scorpion is a hand held stabilizing device and DSLR support rig that will work with virtually any camera.

Be A Weather-Watcher
Planning and scouting your location can have a huge impact on your trip. Don't underestimate the power of a computer and weather apps as general sources, as well as tourism bureaus. Radar maps can mean knowing with confidence that a lunchtime rainstorm will be gone in two hours. But weather reports don't tell you exactly when and where to be, and for that you need to scout. Scouting is something I'd be lost without. For this image of Clear Lake in Ottawa National Forest, I scouted the area 10 days prior to shooting and visited again twice before bringing my camera. I got up at 4 a.m. to get there at just the right time for it to be cool, partially clear and dead-calm for my desired composition. 
Source
Sunrise/Sunset
3 Usually, autumn photography is concentrated on trees and leaves, but sunrise and sunset is a time to focus on the open expanse of sky. There are some trips, or even entire years, when you hit bad weather, but that moment at sunrise could be the best part of your day. A unique sky is always interesting. This image of the moonrise at Grand Sable Dunes focuses on the lack of color, with a pleasant gold band and the graphic autumn tree.
Source

Use Atmosphere
Along with having multiple perspectives and vantage points, atmosphere is a key component for composition. Working near rivers, streams, small lakes and large bodies of water usually assures you that there will be a shot with fog or mist. I have dozens of photos from overlooks when the colors are right on ordinary days. But to make it special, take advantage of the weather conditions. I had been monitoring the weather conditions at Nelson Lake from my computer. When I knew it would be calm and there would be fog, I decided to venture out to the lake for this shot. 
Source

Perspective
With most landscapes, the inspiration for the shot comes from your perspective as you move through the scene. When I think of fall color locations, I don't think of flat areas or just photographing from the highest hill. I want a location with versatile perspectives. I want the ability to be on top of something, but also to stand eye level and have varying compositions. This is an iconic location at the Presque Isle River Kettles in Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park in Michigan; the perspective inspired me as I crossed a suspension bridge over the water.
Source

Avoid White Sky On Overcast Days
If I could design the perfect day, the morning would start with not a cloud in the sky and a bit of fog; then, just as the sun gets harsh, clouds would roll in. I love cloudy days because they allow us to stay in the field all day long. But even with in-camera dynamic contrast range, a large area of white sky isn't very interesting without sunlight and can kill the viewer's attention. So on overcast days, I use the phrase, "This is a no-sky zone." This may mean working in an interior, forested area or specifically with more intimate shots. While some small highlights will work, I try to carefully compose my shot in-camera without any sky to avoid intricate post processing. 
Source

Early Fall Color
While some areas of the country have fairly consistent quality and dates for peak autumn colors, sometimes, dates slide around or an entire season may be thrown off by drought. Don't get too keyed into the predicted dates and be at the mercy of peak color. Early greens are magical as they start to pale and become fluorescent with a patchwork of orange. In this image from Hiawatha National Forest, the red maples are already turning bright red, while the smaller sugar maples are still green. The birch trunks and evergreens add diversity and range. Similar to flower photography, don't fret about arriving a little early—the worst-case scenario is getting there late. 
Nikon D3S, AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm ƒ/2.8G ED VR II, Gitzo GT3530LS tripod, Kirk BH-1 ballhead

Get Out Of Your Comfort Zone
There are days when the color is beautiful, but the weather isn't cooperating. With this set of images, I got a shot in just before a breeze started. I didn't feel done with the location, so I decided to take multiple in-camera exposures. My rule when working with multiple exposures is that I still need a subject and a nice composition. I'm not doing something different just for the sake of doing something different. I let the multiple come to me. I used an AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm ƒ/2.8G ED VR II lens with a tripod collar. For each exposure, I rotated the tripod collar and moved the focal length backward. This way, the windy weather didn't get in the way of me capturing the beautiful colors.
Source 

Focal-Length Selection
A person could easily photograph fall color with a good-quality, wide-range zoom lens. A workhorse, such as the 70-200mm, can never be underestimated. But I generally want to cover a range from 24-300mm in either fixed or zoom lenses, and then throw in a couple of specialty lenses, including a macro and a tilt/shift lens, in order to provide variety and leave room for creativity. In this image, I used my AF-S Micro-Nikkor 60mm ƒ/2.8G ED lens. While I could have used another lens, this was a perfect fit for the subject and composition, and allowed me the most creativity in the moment. When it comes to focal length, don't limit yourself. 
Source

It's Not All About The Leaves
It's easy to fixate on the rich color of fall leaves, but autumn is a season of transition for more than just the trees. As the leaves are turning colors, other plants are sprouting seeds and creating a forest full of details. Cattail stalks turn yellow with brown seedheads. Mushrooms of various colors cover the trees. The air changes, letting calm mornings cover the grasses with frost. In the upper Midwest, milkweed pods are an iconic symbol of the season. These pods are dry seeds that split open and disperse through the wind. I caught some of these milkweed seeds with a background of maple color. 
Source



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Thursday, September 19, 2013

Useful camera features that will transform you from beginner to pro


No matter how long you’ve had your digital camera, there’s always something to learn. And if you’ve just bought your first camera body, the learning curve can seem impossibly steep. But it needn’t be a painful slog. In this tutorial we’ll help you get the most from your DSLR by explaining some of the key camera features found on almost every camera body. Learning these camera features early on in your development will ensure you avoid some of the common camera mistakes and get much better shots as a result.

Camera features on the front of your camera body
24 camera features every beginner photographer must memorize
01 Red-eye reduction
To stop the flash bouncing off the subject’s retinas and causing glowing red eyes this lamp will emit a burst of light to make the subject’s pupils shrink before the flash is triggered. The lamp also acts as a handy self-timer countdown indicator.
02 Focusing ring
In Auto Focus mode this ring rotates until the camera has focussed on the subject. In Manual Focus mode you can rotate the focus ring with your hand to focus on a specific subject.
03 Zoom ring
Rotate this ring clockwise to zoom out for a wide-angle view. Rotate it anti-clockwise (counter-clockwise) to zoom in for a close-up on your subject.
04 Flash button
When shooting using the Creative Zone or manual modes you can tell the built-in flash to pop up by pressing here.
05 Focus mode switch
Leave this set on AF (Auto Focus) if you want the camera to control the focusing. Flip the switch to MF (Manual Focus) when you want to control the focus yourself. In MF mode you can still use the AF points in the viewfinder to tell you when the subject is in sharp focus.
06 Image Stabilizer switch
The lens’s IS (Image Stabilizer) is designed to stop blur caused by camera shake (which is especially noticeable when you’re zoomed in on a distant subject. Nikon IS lenses have a similar VR (Vibration Reduction) switch.
07 Built-in microphone
Most cameras such as the Canon 500D (pictured above) can now record video. Sound to go with it is recorded through a microphone like this (though it will also record camera handling noises like the zoom ring being rotated!).
08 Depth of Field preview button
By pressing here, you can get the camera to stop down to the lens’s current aperture setting.  You can then preview how much of the shot 
will be in focus by looking through the viewfinder or by checking the Live View display.

Camera features on the back of your camera body
Camera features on the back of your camera body
01 Aperture/Exposure Compensation button
On Manual mode hold this button down and turn the Main dial to open or close the aperture. In some other modes (like Aperture Value) you can set the camera to open up or close down a stop using this button and the Main dial.
02 AF point selection
Press this button then rotate the Main dial to select which Auto Focus point the camera will use. It also enables you to zoom in on a shot when you play it back on the camera’s LCD.
03 AE Lock button
This button enables you to lock the camera’s exposure once you’ve taken a reading of the scene’s lighting.  You can also use it to zoom out of a shot when viewing it on the LCD in playback mode. It also lets you focus the camera when using Live View.
04 Live View
Press here to display what the camera will capture on the LCD screen.  Most new cameras have a live LCD function, which saves you from having to look through the viewfinder.
05 Cross keys
These cross key buttons allow you to navigate through the camera’s menus and sub-menus.  You can then press the Set button to choose a specific menu setting. Nikon calls these buttons the Multi-selector. Each button also acts as a shortcut to popular functions like WB (White Balance) or AF (Auto Focus).
06 Self-timer
This cross key button lets you change the camera from Single shooting to Continuous shooting mode (or change the self-timer settings).
07 Playback button
The Playback button enables you to review the shots that you’ve captured on the camera’s memory card.
08 Erase button
The universal trashcan symbol lets you delete the file you’re currently viewing on the camera’s LCD screen.
09 Menu button
Click here to access a vast array of menus and sub menus so that you can alter the way it behaves to suit your requirements. This button lets you access and change the Quality settings for example.
Camera features on the top of your camera body
Camera features on the top of your camera body
01 Built-in flash
When there’s not enough available light to capture a decent exposure, your DSLR’s built-in flash can pop-up to shine some light on the situation. In some modes, you may need to pop it up manually. If there’s not enough light for the camera’s Auto Focus to function the flash unit can also produce a burst of light  to help, called an AF-assist beam.
02 Shutter button
Press this button all the way down to capture a shot. Press it half way down to focus and take an exposure reading of the scene’s lighting. Also press here to wake the camera up after it has gone 
into sleep mode.
03 Main Dial
Rotating this dial enables you to manually set the camera’s aperture or shutter speed.  It’s called the Command dial on a Nikon.
04 ISO button
Click here to choose an ISO speed for the camera to use.  You can then use the Main Dial to select a faster ISO speed to make the camera more sensitive to low light.  You can also set the ISO speed manually by going through the menu system on most digital SLRs and many compacts.
05 On/off switch
Turn the camera off when not in use (though it will automatically fall asleep to save power after 30 seconds).
06 Mode Dial
Rotate this dial to choose a shooting mode. The camera will then set the appropriate aperture and shutter speed setting (as well as processing colour in different ways depending on the mode). There are Basic shooting modes for every type of subject (like Portrait or Landscape).
07 Flash hot shoe mount
All DSLRs enable you to mount a more powerful flashgun on top of the camera so that you can illuminate distant subjects (and perform more creative and effective flash-related shots).

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Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Tips For Making Better Videos

1. Keep It Short

Attention spans are not what they once were. Your video should be concise and relay your message as clearly and quickly as possible. According to Visible Measures, 44.1% of web video viewers tune out after just one minute. If you think yours needs to be longer than this, consider breaking it down into separate videos and crystallize the message in each.

2. Generate Your Content Before Shooting

Creating a video with solid production value is not cheap and it should only be entered into with a well-mapped out plan. Write your content down in a detailed script so when the time comes to shoot, you know exactly what you want and how you want to frame it. Producing a video without a solid plan is a sure way to not only sap yourself of money, but to produce an inferior product.

3. Create Goals Beforehand

When sitting down to create your content, come up with a set of goals you hope to achieve with your video. Are you trying to appeal to your customer over the competition? Is your video instructional in nature? Are you simply looking to give a face to your business? Answers to these questions can help give your video direction and can end up informing everything you do, from how you craft your content to how your stylize and edit your footage.

4. Ensure Adequate Lighting

Once your message is ready, it’s all about the details. A poor lighting set-up is going to make your video seem amateurish and incompetent ñ and that’s the last thing you want to relay to your viewers. On the other hand, a well-lit video can project a sense of high production value. Consider shooting your video outside on a minimally cloudy day to diffuse the sunlight. If you require indoor shooting, use halogen lamps for a relatively cheap alternative to professional lighting rigs.

5. Use the Right Hardware

Professional level video equipment is cheaper and more accessible than ever, so you should invest your money in high-quality gear. Consider a high-definition camera with an adequate zoom capability, and one that supports SD cards so your memory capacity is not limited. If you’re not very tech savvy, stop by your local Best Buy or other electronics retailer and convey to the sales rep what you’re hoping to accomplish.

Final Thoughts

A poorly produced video may end up harming your business more than helping it, so if you decide to tackle this project, do it the right way. If you don’t have the resources to accomplish it now, put it on hold and focus on other areas of your venture, such as building a social media presence, while you generate enough revenue to make your video. An effective web video involves a significant commitment, especially if you’re a rookie, so be sure to wait for the right moment before you make yours.
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